For those of you
who were unable to attend the Sonoma-Cutrer Winemaker’s Dinner
in the Fall of 2005, AND you also missed
the recent iteration that featured Chalk Hill Estate Vineyard and Winery
- again at Harvest Restaurant at Pheasant Run Resort
in St. Charles - then you have missed out on two of the
best dinners/wine samplings that this area has seen. And just when I
thought that Chef Josef Yuisich could not outdo his previous dinner (late October
2005), he managed to
once again prove that he has talents that easily exceed expectations.
The evening had an identical itinerary in terms of procedure, but the
flavors, wine selections and pairings were altogether another matter - and
again, they were outstanding. The selection of "hand-crafted winter
delicacies" during the reception included an immense array of cheeses, one
of which was as soft, creamy and delicate as any I have tasted. There
were also several seafood crustinis - shrimp and scallops - that were
melt-in-your-mouth good. These were all accompanied by a 2002
Sauvignon Blanc that was mellow and tart at the same time - a perfect
partner to the hors d'oeuvres - probably a result of the chalky soils of the
estate.
After being seated in the dining room, Brian Harley from Chalk Hill gave us
a brief overview of the winery and of the wines we were going to taste on
this particular evening. It was obvious that Brian had not only a love
for wine but also for the special wines of Chalk Hill, as he spoke with both
passion and conviction. Chalk Hill is a relatively small winery -
about 1200 acres, only about 300 of which are planted in grapes -
overlooking the Russian River Valley of northern Sonoma Valley, just north
of San Francisco, California.
It
was time for the appetizer: Cherry Wood Smoked Duck and Roasted Shiitake
Mushrooms, Garnished with a Black Bean Wild Rice Griddle Cake. Now
tell me if just reading that doesn't make your taste buds stand up
and ask for some! Perfectly paired with a 2002 Pinot Gris Select, the
dish was as marvelous to eat as it was to see... plated beautifully.
And the Pinot Gris? I found it hard to believe that a white wine could taste
soooo good with a big bold and game flavor like smoked duck... but it
absolutely did; with subtle mineral and peach flavors, it was an excellent
pairing.
The salad was almost an entree in itself. A delicate and crispy potato
horn-of-plenty spilled forth Pan Seared Spicy Scallops with Roasted
Fingerling Potatoes and Micro Greens, Served with a Fennel Chardonnay
Dressing and paired with an excellent 2002 Chardonnay that was big and
bold, yet subtle and well-balanced, hinting of butter and oak and supplying
a long, smooth finish. The scallops fell apart upon touching my palate
and were so well matched with the wine that I hardly noticed the hints of
"fire" that tagged along with the scallops.
Speaking of big and bold - the entree was about as big and bold as one could
possibly imagine:
Melange
of Peppercorn crusted Roast Venison with Madeira Currant Reduction...
and Wild Mushroom & Boursin Stuffed Filet
Wrapped with Creole Mustard & Apple Bacon Cognac Demi Creme; Garnished with
Shallot Confit and Baby Vegetables. The outrageously
imaginative creation needed just as bold a wine to accompany it. Chef
Yurisich perfectly paired a
2001 Merlot
with this marvelous main course.
It was a very big wine with concentrated flavors of black cherry, blueberry,
cassis, plum and even a hint of chocolate. But save some room for
dessert cried our server! You mean there was more? Yup!
The dessert was simple and as elegant as the trio of white wines from
earlier that evening: Seasonal Tangerine Creme Brulee... served in a
small coffee cup, it accompanied by a delicate spoon made of white chocolate Now with
all due respect to the Chef, I have never been a big fan of desserts, BUT...
after the last Winemaker Dinner's fabulous finish, I was willing to try
another. and so, Chef Josef, you have converted me with both the look
and the taste of an excellent finishing course. As full as I was, I
ate it all and enjoyed every bite! Oh, yes... the wine. The
pairing was a 2002 Kracher BA from Austria - and what a totally unexpected
and very pleasant surprise. as little as I know about dinner wines -
reds and whites - I know even less about dessert wines. But I have to
say that this one was fabulous. With only a hint of sweetness, it was
easily drinkable, offering complex aromas, a very strong finish and a
perfect balance between sweetness and acidity: an outstanding example of a
fine dessert wine.
As
we departed - rather rolled out of - the dining room, we both smiled a
contented smile and headed home to savor the memories of another example of
outstanding food, wine and service at Harvest. Thanks again to all of
you - from Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards and Winery to Pheasant Run - who made
it possible!
Richard C. Ross
Vice President & Director of Marketing
Northern Sky
Designs, LLC
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